Editors’ Top Reads: News from Ted Baker, Christopher Kane, TikTok and more…
Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.fashion team.
Sporty and Rich? How luxury ‘Quiet Sportswear’ comfortably took over Regent Street
Regent Street is an interesting one. It’s always been something of an international gateway location for fashion brands. Often it’s the first step into the UK (or Europe even) for major American brands and also something of a stepping stone for European brands as they make their way over the Atlantic.
Pre-pandemic, it was (and to some extent still is) home to big-name American brands wanting to make a statement to UK consumers and the many tourists that tread the pavements of Regent Street. More affluent in feel to Oxford Street, the price points of the brands on it were on average a bit higher. Banana Republic had a big branch here, as did J.Crew and Brooks Brothers.
These have now all gone and a new type of brand has taken hold in the form of quiet, premium athleisure brands. Gymshark, Vuori, Lululemon and Alo Yoga are just some of the brands to open flagships on this prime piece of international real estate, as our contributing editor Marcus Jaye discusses in this great feature. This really speaks to how dressing has changed post-pandemic and also to a focus on more healthy lifestyles (though I’m not kidding myself that everyone who wears these clothes is working out in them).
How long before the consumer gets bored of the puffer coat and neutral leggings trend is to be determined. This look has never been my bag, but happily, there’s another type of brand on Regent Street – contemporary French (Polene is coming!!) – to keep me happy. However, I’m delighted to see these retailers, many of whom are relatively new brands, making such confident statements about physical retail, as well as physical activity.
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
Christopher Kane launched his collection for Self-Portrait
Christopher Kane’s legacy was already shaping up to be one of Christal embellishments (and provocative slogans), so it seemed fitting when Self-Portrait, renowned for its glitz and glamour, announced he would step into the role of Creative Director as part of its “Residency” initiative.
After announcing the partnership in September and after months of anticipation growing, Self-portrait finally pulled back the curtain on Kane’s creations.
Two looks from the collection were revealed yesterday in a campaign starring Kane’s longtime supporter Carine Roitfeld, shot at her home in Paris by Larissa Hofmann. The full campaign featuring a wider cast will be released from next week.
Kane’s Residency collection reinterprets key concepts from his iconic SS07 debut collection. Think striking textures – crystal chainmail, soft lace ruffles and fluid satins – the perfect harmony between the CSM graduate designer and the fanciful fashion label.
Chloé Burney, Senior News & Features Writer.
TikTok predicts record-breaking Christmas sales for brands on platform
TikTok predicts this Christmas will mark its biggest UK retail moment yet, driven by a surge in LIVE shopping sessions and an increase in ad spend from clients over the festive period.
It comes as more businesses join the platform, driving sales this festive period through the power of ‘discovery commerce’.
With millions of consumers expected to shop on TikTok throughout November and December this year, LIVE shopping has rapidly gained momentum as a dynamic way for brands and creators to engage with audiences in real time.
Advertising on the platform is also driving shopping behaviour, with 61% of users having made a purchase either directly on TikTok or online after seeing an ad on TikTok.
I can’t say this news is particularly surprising, after such a stellar year for TikTok Shop and brands on the platform. However, it’s certainly interesting! For more insights, read here.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.
Ted Baker to return to wholesale with ex-Barbour MD’s new company
This week saw one-time British high street giant Ted Baker relaunch its e-commerce website in the UK and Europe, following a new licensing deal between the brand’s owners, Authentic Brands Group (ABG), and new operating partner, United Legwear and Apparel (ULAC).
That announcement was swiftly followed by the news that Ted Baker is to return to wholesale from January 2025 – with a showroom in London’s Shoreditch – following a deal with Pace Partnership London, whose founder and CEO is former Barbour MD Ryan Llewellyn-Pace, to handle the wholesale side.
While there’s no doubt that Pace was successful in the growth of Barbour’s wholesale business during his almost 10-year tenure at the brand (the last four years as MD up to March 2023), the return of Ted Baker to a wholesale model so soon after its collapse into administration earlier this year seems optimistic to say the least.
Has Ted Baker truly recovered from its founder and creative force Ray Kelvin being forced to resign following allegations of misconduct (which he denied) in 2019? Kelvin was Ted Baker after all.
Recent memories of mass store closures, closing down sales, designs being criticised where once they were lauded, will mean it will take a brave buyer to relaunch it in their store, however hot the new product is. It will be interesting to see how the first season’s order book pans out.
Meanwhile, across town, Ray Kelvin’s new brand, Sealskinz, of which he is also the Creative Director, has opened its first permanent retail store at 1 Hinde Street in Marylebone Village. “I have lived and breathed retail my entire life and I intend to create something truly special,” said Kelvin. “It’s good to be back.” It seems there’s life in the old dog yet.
Tom Bottomley, Contributing Editor.
